Camino Norte, Day 18, Arzua to Arca

The day started a bit cold and foggy, and we found ourselves in what seemed like an army of pilgrims. The Camino Norte had joined the Camino Frances in Arzua, and from here on the pilgrims were much more numerous. At any one time one might see 5-15 pilgrims. Ciera and I had seen in 2018 that lots and lots of pilgrims started in Sarria, which is 100 km from Santiago, and walking it thus qualifies one for a Compostella. One has to prove you walked the last 100 km, which you do by having your pilgrim’s passport stamped at least twice a day.

As we had last year, we were reminded that “Jesus didn’t start in Sarria.” Point of historical fact: Jesus didn’t do the Camino, and the Camino didn’t actually start until 1000 years after his death, and it was to recognize one of his disciples, St. James. But whatever.

One tradition that remains prevalent among some on the Camino is shaming your fellow pilgrims, about riding a bike, taking a taxi, sending your pack ahead, not staying in abergues (hostels), taking a bus, or starting in Sarria and only walking the minumum, etc. Every pilgrim walks the Camino with different physical abilities, health problems, time schedules, goals,interests, blister situations, and preferences. One can really do the Camino to fit your preferences.

We stayed at a clean, simple, and cheap place, Pension Diana.

Costs:

Arzua to Arca, 20.3 km, 12.6 mi, sent packs by mochila
Tortilla esanola and Aquius 7
Croissant and OJ 4
Sandwich beer nestea 7
Pension diana €68